The Weekend Inquirer: Sabotage In The Name Of Authenticity At Han Dynasty

• Craig LaBan ventures out to Han Dynasty, where he has "a platter of the most intensely smoky tea-smoked duck I've ever eaten." Stick to the Szechuan dishes, because Han Chiang, the owner, "routinely turns away patrons looking for the buffet and sticky-sauced combo platters featured by the previous occupants of his space, is forcing the issue of authenticity by aiming as low as possible on his menu's chop-suey-house classics." [Inquirer]

• Sly Fox beers are a good bet for pairings at Han Dynasty. "There is an added zing to Szechuan heat, though, the numbing anise aromatics of Szechuan peppercorn, that really makes the Saison VOS the ideal match," LaBan advises. [Inquirer]

• Rick Nichols cautions against confusing seasonal and local as one and the same, especially as local produce is not quite here yet. In the meantime, West Coast fava beans have sprouted on the menus at Fork, Osteria, and (soon) Bibou. [Inquirer]

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