The Other Critics

Going Molecular at Marigold; Fish Is a ‘Full-Fledged Marlin’

• Craig LaBan finds some worthwhile flavor combinations - and a piece of plastic wrap - among the foam in the latest molecular gastronomy-centric incarnation of Marigold Kitchen. [Inquirer]

• Trey Popp is delighted that chicken skin has found its way onto the menu at the seafood-oriented Fish. [City Paper]

• Rick Nichols checks in with Vietnam’s owner Benny Lai at his new Vietnam Cafe and swoons over the barbecue platter and the memories. [Inquirer]

• Adam Erace joins the burger appreciation club at Village Whiskey. [Philadelphia Weekly]

• David Snyder says “no thanks” to Fairmount’s NoVi. [City Paper]

• Phyllis Stein-Novack likes Gemelli on the Main Line so much she triple-toques it; meanwhile, Sister Sandy gets her first taste of white anchovies. [South Philly Review]

Going Molecular at Marigold; Fish Is a ‘Full-Fledged Marlin’