the other critics

Housemade Bitters Are a ‘Brilliant Touch’ to JG Domestic’s Empire Builder; Village Belle’s Marinara ‘Is Blindingly Bright’

• On his visit to Olney’s Seorabol, Brian Freedman “wasn’t blown away” by the “neither stinky nor particularly flavorful” noodles in black bean sauce nor the overcooked octopus, but the marinated bulgogi was “sweet, bright, tender and impossibly moist.” [PW]

• At the still new-ish Veggie Lovers in Chinatown, Lari Robling finds the richer broth and dumplings in the wonton soup “a better choice” than the “flavorless” hot and sour soup; the sesame cold noodles hit “a high note.” [Daily News]

• Adam Erace reports that Joey and Lou Campanaro’s marinara at Village Belle “is blindingly bright, with a long, sweet, onion-y finish,” and the “gossamer” crespelle is “ethereal.” [Citypaper]

• For Craig LaBan Four Roses Single Barrel bourbon is a “nice fit” for JG Domestic’s Empire Builder; the dash of “steeped on torched cherrywood chips” housemade espresso-and-chicory bitters is “a brilliant touch.” [Inquirer]

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