Jeremy Nolen, the chef at South Street’s Brauhaus Schmitz, is putting a fresh spin on the German restaurant’s bill of fare. With a regularly changing selection of specials, available Thursday through Sunday nights, he is combining ingredients and flavors typically associated with German cuisine with more contemporary techniques to produce what he’s dubbed “New German Cooking.” “It’s something I wanted do for a long time,” Nolen told Grub Street. “Instead of running something traditionally German as a special, which is what we’re already doing with out regular menu, I wanted to modernize things.”
“In Germany, people still eat schnitzels, sausages and kraut, but it’s not what they eat everyday,” Nolen said. “There’s definitely been like an evolution that’s more ingredient driven.” He added that this new approach to the restaurant’s specials leverages more fish, produce and “wild stuff” as well as Brauhaus staples like house-cured and smoked meats, and pickled vegetables.
New dishes include things like Pan-seared Spanish mackerel with smoked potato puree, red beet sauerkraut (grated beets fermented with star anise and juniper berries) and a foamy whipped horseradish sauce; a late winter salad of baby beets, brussel sprout leaves, beet and turnip greens in a light vinaigrette and pumpernickel “dirt”; wild boar shanks with smoked garlic sauce; and a pheasant confit maultaschen (German ravioli) with pumpernickel consommé.