• Brian Freedman checks out Loco Pez, and learns that despite the bar’s place atop the hip food chain, there’s still plenty for food nerds to dork out on. He applauds the kitchen crew for their magic act of “transforming the familiar into something memorable.” Chicken tacos provide a “complicated sense of exoticism” with their “addition of tamarind,” and the carnitas “deglazed in orange juice and tequila” go “in the direction of some sort of barbecue.” As far as beverage go, the El Loco Pez is a “balanced gem,” and the Monte Carlo is “something more adventurous.” [PW]
• At Point Breeze’s American Sardine Bar, Adam Erace assesses chef Scott Schroeder’s “virtues of razor-sharp execution, confident seasoning and meticulous sourcing,” and comes to the conclusion that the sandwich-forward menu delivers some of “the city's most interesting bar food.” One drawback he highlights is that orders from the kitchen “can take long,” but the 16 taps in house to “alleviate impatience” is “worth the delay.” [Citypaper]
