Route 6 Earns Marks For ‘Straight-Ahead Lobster Cookery’; Fried Smelts Are ‘Addicting’ at Melograno


Perhaps the most interesting part of Inky critic Craig LaBans lackluster review of Stephen Starrs Route 6, was the curious footnote about Starrs love of erstwhile fish house Bookbinders and the revelation that he once considered rescuing it from permanent closure. Noting that Route 6 is by no means a terrible restaurant, LaBan gives the raw bar, the excellent chowder, and some of the better straight-ahead lobster cookery in town all the thumbs up. Its the disaster of a lobster spaghetti special, the paired with nothing crab cake and swordfish that was cooked until it was dry as sawdust that kept LaBan from giving Route 6 a full two-bell endorsement. [Inquirer]

Adam Erace checks out Da Soli Restaurant in Haddonfield, where a more-is-more philosophy undermines the restaurants superb enough to stand on its own pasta. Flavors were on point for a grilled calamari dish, and featherweight gnudi were a success, but a butterflied and stuffed steak pushed things back up over the top. [Courier-Post]

Two eat Philly takes Craig LaBans advice, and checks out Sansom Streets Melograno where the salty, oily flavor of fried smelts is addicting. The Pappardelle Tartufate was satisfying and filling, while the Zuppetta di Mare was the least favorite [dish] of the night. [Two Eat Philly]