The Other Critics

Sky Cafe Lobs ‘Umami Grenades’; Siri’s Thai Side ‘Gets It Right’

• In the quest for “authentic flavors,” Inquirer critic Craig LaBan says, “nothing is so scary that it can’t be nibbled once.” And with that, he ordered the satay Padang, fishy fried rice, and a side of sator beans at South Philly’s Sky Cafe, despite his server’s warnings. Those and most of the other dishes, he goes on to write, “would appeal to less-daring diners.” Beef and chicken satay skewers were “among the best [he’s] had,” but the “best are the dishes that are signatures from Medan.” With its everything-but-the-oink approach, the nasi campur Medan pork platter “tastes like an umami grenade.” [Inquirer]

• Citing its reluctance to “mingling of gastronomic cultures,” Adam Erace says Cherry Hill’s Siri’s Thai French Restaurant feels “like two opposing restaurants living in the same mauve-and-gold space.” Still the Thia side of things, he goes on to write, “Siri’s gets right.” The tom kha, a soup of wild mushrooms and coconut broth seasoned with fresh cilantro and galangal, “was one of the most elegant, finessed versions” he’s tried. The shrimp and crab-stuffed pandan leaf was a “successful starter from the menu’s Asian selections.” However, the escargot baked in puff pastry “was a mess.” Pad thai was a “home run.” [Courier-Post]

• Those Penn Appetit kids wasted no time at all in running a review of Rimedio, the Northern Italian-inspired BYOB that opened Saturday for regular service in the former Rx space. Apparently the bread, which was served at room temperature, was “not up to par.” The “sumptuous aroma” of the linguine, with house-cured pork belly, scallops, wild mushroom, and butter pan sauce, “enveloped” the reviewer, who deemed it was “good, but not utterly outstanding.” [Penn Appetit]

Sky Cafe Lobs ‘Umami Grenades’; Siri’s Thai Side ‘Gets