Posts for April 10, 2012

The Pickled Heron Is a ‘Promising Upstart’; Marlton Tavern Has the ‘Best Crab Cakes’

• Craig LaBan calls BYOB The Pickled Heron “unprecedented,” but not so much for its cuisine as much as its high ambitions and prices while situated in the heart of Fishtown. Costs and coordinates aside, he adds that the “fine flavors” that chef-owners Daniela D’Ambrosio and Todd Braley turn out of their kitchen gives “good reason to come back.” Grilled octopus was “wonderfully tender,” and the “breast of veal rolled around a pinwheel of lemony sorrel” serves as “a clear emblem of the old-school Larousse aesthetic.” Despite minor missteps, he says the “finesse will come” to the “promising upstart.” [Inquirer]

• At the historic Marlton Tavern, Adam Erace munches the “best crab cakes” he’s ever had, but that, he writes, did not “prove prophetic for the other appetizers.” Cheesy crab-and-spinach dip was plagued by poor execution, and the “salty tortilla chips added a strange Tex-Mex note to the dish.” “Overcooked scallops” and “stringy mussels” made the seafood pescatore pretty “pedestrian.” With the arrival of a grilled pork chops stuffed with sundried tomatoes, sauteed spinach and feta, things “did get better.” [Courier-Post]

It’s the Time of the Saison at Alla Spina

Alla Spina

Belgian saisons (and the farmhouse style ales inspired by them) are arguably the beers best suited for quenching your thirst. Traditionally the dry and hazy ales were specially formulated and brewed to wet the whistles of farmhands while they toiled under the hot sun. And just as the warm weather starts heating up around these parts, Marc Vetri’s Alla Spina is devoting ten-plus taps to the style for what it’s calling Saisonale. During this celebration of these seasonal sippers, you can sample them in their most classic form, like Brasserie Dupont’s benchmark Saison Dupont and contemporary interpretations like Dogfish Head’s grape smut-infected Noble Rot. Keep reading to check out the full lineup.

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Greensgrow Is Getting Hog Wild on Friday

Roasted Pig

The good folks at Greensgrow Farms are teaming up with Philadelphia Brewing Co., and a diverse group of restaurants ranging from Fishtown’s French and fabulous Pickled Heron to the South Philadelphia Tap Room for Friday’s Whole Hog fundraiser at the brewery. The feast will, of course, feature a whole roasted pig, plus a huge spread of everything from pulled pork sliders from Johnny Brenda’s to mac and cheese from Memphis Taproom. And it can all be yours for the cost of $75 ($50 for CSA members).

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22 Other Things Pizza Hut Should Stuff Into Its Crusts

This is only the beginning.

Now that Pizza Huts in the UK are offering pizza crusts stuffed with hot dogs, it would seem we've reached the pinnacle of human achievement. Hardly. Here's a bunch of other crap that, to the best of our knowledge, has yet to be stuffed into a pizza crust.

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Dettera's Jeffrey Power Slings Spring’s Bounty

Soft shells and dandelionsPhoto: Courtesy Dettera

As we spring forward further into April, the presence of the season’s bounty is becoming increasingly apparent on restaurant’s plates. Today, Ambler’s well-received Dettera and its chef Jeffrey Power are stepping up the spring factor with the beauty pictured above. It’s a crispy soft shell crab, dressed with a housemade fennel marmalade and local dandelion greens. Power is serving this hyper-seasonal dish now and for how ever long dandelion greens and soft shells remain available.

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