Hold the mustard.
Photo: The New Yorker
For its annual food issue, The New Yorker deploys several correspondents over continents and into the realms of memory: Calvin Trillin eats like a local when he visits his daughter and her family in Oaxaca, while Mimi Sheraton remembers the bygone sausages of her youth and laments the sad state of kosher beef salami in contemporary New York. Elsewhere, Daniyal Mueenuddin develops a sudden appetite for samosas when he inherits his father’s farm in Pakistan, Chang-rae Lee learns how to make a perfect Manhattan, Dana Goodyear delves into the world of a Los Angeles supper club, and Philip Gourevitch skins bears. [NYer]
