Village Voice critic Robert Sietsema just put out a list of nine dishes he loves in San Francisco. “I recently went on a restaurant-hopping expedition there — stopping at both venerable places, middle-age places, and brand-spanking-new places — and I never had a bad bite of food in nearly a week of constant eating,” he writes. What are some of his favorites? Cioppino at Sotto Mare; celery root tortelli with brown butter, walnuts, and balsamic at Flour + Water; chicken with explosive chili pepper at Z&Y;; and fried chicken ramen at Suzu Noodle House in Japantown. [First We Feast]