Pizza Brain ‘More Than a Hipster Prank’; Catelli Duo a ‘Whole Lot Younger and Hipper’ Than Its Predecessor


Craig LaBan checks out the Frankford Ave. pizza memorabilia museum and pizzeria known as Pizza Brain and realizes its much more than a funky slice shop and North Philly hipster prank. From the delicately roasty crusts, bright sauce, and basil plume flickering with garden freshness, he finds there is substance behind the counters, and in the worthy variations on the classic crispy American genre. The too acidic red sauce on the vegan Tom pie, and the funky and off-balance blue cheese on a Granny Smiths, almond and onion pie both need tweaking. The butterfat-rich confections offered at Little Babys Ice Cream (also under the same roof) are as well-crafted as they are bold. [Inquirer]

In Vorhees, Adam Erace reports back that Catelli Duo is a whole lot younger and hipper than its predecessor ever was, and was very obviously inspired by Philly restaurants Osteria, Barbuzzo, Zavino and Pizzeria Stella. Rosemary-rubbed Osteria wings were awesome, while soft scamorza-stuffed meatballs left him thinking Mar Vetri ought to watch his back when he opens in Moorestown. The tumble of clunky calamari tasted bright and fiery, but looked like something not fit for print. A floppy crusted mushroom pizza should have been cooked harder and seasoned stronger. Fortunately, an order of rich braised beef short ribs proved satisfying. [Courier-Post]