The Other Critics

The Cambridge ‘Showed Potential’; Dandelion’s Croquettes Are ‘Perfect For Snacking’

• Looks, drinks, location and “even the appealing ideas on the menu” makes it seem like “everything is in place” at South Street’s The Cambridge, but Inky critic Craig LaBan finds “frustration” in the amount of attention paid to “what lands on the plate.” Some dishes like the beef short rib-laced mac-and-cheese, pierogies, and pork belly “showed potential,” but ambition is lost in careless execution, amounting to a lot of “food that’s burned or heavy and dark with fryer grease.” [Inquirer]

• Adam Erace gives Starr’s Brit-ish pub Dandelion a go, and reports back that we’re “lucky to have” native Brit Robert Aikens heading the kitchen there. He says that the chef’s cod, peekytoe crab and potato croquettes are “perfect for snacking,” and that his duck-and-foie gras terrine gives a lot of bang for your buck. But it’s the fish and chips that are “hard not to zero in on.” The “meaty flavor” derived from cooking the chips in tallow (beef fat) makes them so good “you wouldn’t dare call ’em fries.” [Courier-Post]

The Cambridge ‘Showed Potential’; Dandelion’s Croquettes Are