the other critics

The Mildred ‘Did Not Disappoint’; Craft & Claw Deserves Support in ‘Undouching Old City’

Brian Freedman Cristina Perachio writes The Mildred’s chitarra with braised cockles, bacon and beer “did not disappoint,” despite Inky critic Craig LaBan just saying it needed “fine tuning.” Citing the combination of quality ingredients, and masterful technique, she also heaps praise upon a braised chicken dish that he says isn’t the type of thing she ate while growing up, but it still had a “comfort-food feeling to it.” [PW]

• “Mariner-chic” Craft & Claw in Old City comes across like an “upscaled Chickie’s & Pete’s,” according to Adam Erace, and “crabs are the main attraction.” All told, he writes the place is “worth patronizing,” Chef Nick Fabian “has the talent to keep things afloat,” and the “worthy cause” of “undoucheing of Old City” should be supported. [Citypaper]

• And speaking of crabs, Phyllis Stein-Novack gives three toques for the crab-stuffed flounder at Stephen Starr’s “good,” “simple,” and “pricey” Route 6. The cherrystone clams, and “hot steaming bowls” of New England clam chowder were both “spot on.” [South Philly Review]

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