Eli Kulp Pushes Fork to ‘Four-Bell Potential’; ‘Lusty, Legit Flavor’ Blooms at Collingswood’s Indiya


Craig LaBan thoroughly endorses Forks latest chef Eli Kulp with an enthusiastic three bell review. Calling Kulp a serious talent, he boldy states that the chefs arrival makes the 15-year-old restaurant something even better. The huge helpings on the chefs sharable feast plates, like the enormous Wagyu short rib, LaBan writes, should not be missed. Stunning pastas, like the incredibly earthy burnt-grain pappardelle and tortelloni filled with gently smoked pumpkin help put the restaurant on track for four-bell potential. But the desserts and their overly obsessed with savory intrusions need work. [Inquirer]

At Collingswood newcomer Indiya, Adam Erace finds chef-owner Vipul Bhasins cooking bloomed with vivid, lusty, legit flavor. Dishes like crunchy, tender, chile-blushed ragda patties were delicious, and crispy lump crab cakes, laced here with fennel, cumin, cilantro and coconut and served with tangy, sweet tomato chutney, were worthy of Jerseys best seafood restaurants. The chicken Chettinad had him happily sweating and reaching for points of warm, tandoor-blistered garlic naan to sop up the gravy. All told, the restaurant strikes an uncommon balance of fresh, compelling food and serious value. [Courier-Post]