the other critics

‘Be Prepared to Burn the Roof of Your Mouth’ at Gennaro's Tomato Pie; Side Project Jerkey’s Collaboration with Rival Bros. ‘Worth Chewing For’

• Adam Erace says “be prepared to burn the roof of your mouth” when scarfing down the pizzas at Gennaro's Tomato Pie. The pies, he writes, are best when they’re just “seconds from the oven,” and the “pools of molten whole-milk mozzarella and herbaceous, coarsely ground, raw tomato sauce swirled together like a Van Gogh landscape.” Grandmom Grace’s mini meatballs are “the best” of the toppings offered; the “tender” meat is “held together by ricotta and wishes.” [Citypaper]

• Brian Freedman takes notes of the “deeply considered” level of synergy that goes on between the bar and the kitchen at Sbraga while sipping the restaurant’s Cynar Manhattan, a “phenomenal cocktail” designed to pair with the Top Chef‘s steamed pollock with grilled artichoke and scallion. [PW]

• Side Project Jerky’s limited release Cowboy flavor, which ropes in Rival Bros. coffee for a red-eye gravy-inspired beefy snack and benefits Deva Watson's Fresh Palates to Palettes program, is a cause “worth chewing for,” according to Craig LaBan. [Inquirer]

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