the other critics

Meltkraft’s Grilled Cheeses are ‘Gooey Inside but Greasy and Flappy Outside’; Erin O’Shea’s ‘Southern Cooking Roots’ Shine on Percy Street BBQ’s New Dishes

• Adam Erace says the housemade mozzarella at Reading Terminal Market newcomer Valley Shepherd Creamery is legit, but the “gooey inside but greasy and flappy outside” sandwiches served by its stall-mate, Meltkraft, hardly meet the “golden and crisp” specs for a “proper grilled cheese.” [Citypaper]

• After three years of smoking meats on South Street, Percy Street BBQ’s Erin O’Shea is “channeling her Southern cooking roots,” rolling out a series of dishes that go beyond her usual low-and-slow cooked fare. Mike Klein vouches for the olive-oil-poached shrimp, whose lemon “zing” gets a “beautiful, sour balance” from house-pickled cauliflower, carrots, Vidalia onion, jalapenos, garlic, and cilantro. [Good Tatse]

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