Cheu’s Noodles Are ‘Interesting,’ But Everything Else Is ‘More Compelling’; Fork’s Eli Kulp ‘Can Cook, No Doubt’


Jason Sheehan delivers the first word on Cheu Noodle Bars good, fresh, and interesting noodles, but finds that everything else on the menu is so much more compelling. The pork belly in the buns literally melts the minute you bite it; and the scrapple is just plain amazing like a tiny pork grenade. He advises using a spare set of chopsticks to eye-poke anyone who makes a move on your bowl of dumplings. [Foobooz]

The small selection of starters, like the letter-perfect escarole/apple salad with a surprising rye personality from a warm speck-and-raisin dressing, at Eraserhood pizzeria Bufad showed promise for Adam Erace. Unfortunately, the pizzas didnt. Though the pies have wonderful crusts, chewy and light with an ashy black perimeter that tastes like winter in New York, the toppings dont do them justice. [Citypaper]

Trey Popp posits that in this era of absentee owner Forks Ellen Yin embodies the old-school notion that nothing breeds excellence like undivided attention. He adds that the recent chef change has paid off, verifying very matter-of-factly that Eli Kulp can cook, no doubt. [Phillymag]