the other critics

Gennaro’s Tomato Pie Delivers ‘Authentic Tastes of History to Present-Day South Philly’; Hip City Veg ‘Beyond Reproach’

• With an enthusiastic two bells, Craig LaBan makes a case for Gennaro's Tomato Pie, and its ability to bring “authentic tastes of history to present-day South Philadelphia.” The World War II era pies served there, he wtites, summon a “specific flavor, an elusive New York spirit of rustic, roasty crust and tangy sauce.” The “cheese-on-the-bottom technique” gives the pizza “more equal ratio of mozzarella-to-tomato, and thus a lighter slice” with ingredients that “tend to pop.” [Inquirer]

• Adam Erace says that Hip City Veg’s shake “was astoundingly creamy and smooth” for a shake made without any dairy. For the most part, he says the majority of the menu is “beyond reproach,” but that more finely ground plantain chips would have improved the “boldly spiced” jerk “chick’n” caesar, and kale-apple-banana “Groothie” smoothie would have benefited from a “squirt more of agave.” [Courier-Post]

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