the other critics

‘Bold, Authentic Ethnic Flavors’ Shine at Jane G’s; ‘Brooklyn Style’ Baffles at Italyani

• Craig LaBan sees promise in Jane G’s transformation from being a front for “one big, dull, pan-Asian fusion cliché” to “breathing Sichuan fire” with “bold takes on authentic ethnic flavors.” A whole tilapia in hot bean paste, “one of the best whole-fish dishes in the city”; “exceptional” duck “completely infused with layers of flavor from a Shaoxing wine marinade, a dry rub of star anise, clove and jasmine tea, and the sweet smoke of pine wood”; and “impossible to resist” spice-crusted, and flash-fried beef jerky earn the restaurant a two bell ranking. [Inquirer]

• Decoding the “Brooklyn Style” descriptor attached to several different plates on the menu at Aldo Lamberti’s Italyani befuddles Adam Erace, but “enjoys” the panko-breaded shrimp that’s labeled as such at the Lumberton newcomer. Prices are “reasonable,” and the complimentary salads are a “better starter” than the “rubbery fried calamari tossed with electric cherry peppers.” Spaghetti tutto mare, “overflowing” with “shrimp, clams and mussels,” was a “good, if not terribly original, version of a dish you can get at any Italian restaurant in the area.” [Courier-Post]

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