‘Bold, Authentic Ethnic Flavors’ Shine at Jane G’s; ‘Brooklyn Style’ Baffles at Italyani


Craig LaBan sees promise in Jane Gs transformation from being a front for one big, dull, pan-Asian fusion cliché to breathing Sichuan fire with bold takes on authentic ethnic flavors. A whole tilapia in hot bean paste, one of the best whole-fish dishes in the city; exceptional duck completely infused with layers of flavor from a Shaoxing wine marinade, a dry rub of star anise, clove and jasmine tea, and the sweet smoke of pine wood; and impossible to resist spice-crusted, and flash-fried beef jerky earn the restaurant a two bell ranking. [Inquirer]

Decoding the Brooklyn Style descriptor attached to several different plates on the menu at Aldo Lambertis Italyani befuddles Adam Erace, but enjoys the panko-breaded shrimp thats labeled as such at the Lumberton newcomer. Prices are reasonable, and the complimentary salads are a better starter than the rubbery fried calamari tossed with electric cherry peppers. Spaghetti tutto mare, overflowing with shrimp, clams and mussels, was a good, if not terribly original, version of a dish you can get at any Italian restaurant in the area. [Courier-Post]