Two Takes on SoWe; Dinners at Sophia’s Were ‘Incoherent and Error-Prone’

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Doofy name aside, G-Ho neighborhood bistro SoWe showed some promise for Adam Erace. The chickpea fritters, which newly appointed chef Jenn Choplin carried over from her stint at Watkins Drinkery, was suffused with garlic and charred poblano peppers, each crispy falafel sphere came embellished with a pink pickled shallot and leaf of cilantro in a way that was purposeful and smart. The untraditional pork ribs and their generously applied bourbon barbecue sauce were more memorable. And the vegan Reuben outperformed a real-meat chicken tartine that was plagued by disappointingly dry grilled paillards. [Citypaper]

In anticipation of the Kentucky Derby, Inky critic Craig LaBan checks in on Choplins Kentucky Hot Brown at SoWe, and reports back that its pretty legit. The brunch hit comes with a couple of twists on tradition, namely a French toast base, and indulgent drizzle of Mornay cheese sauce. [Good Taste]

Trey Popp says his dinners at Chris Lees Sophias on East Passyunk Avenue were incoherent and error-prone. With no rhyme or reason, dishes arrived like a bizarre palindrome: entrée, entrée, appetizer, appetizer, a Caesar salad smack in the middle. Fun-sounding plates, he adds were flat and boring, while larger ones clashed rather than complementing one another. [Phillymag]